The reason layering is difficult for beginners to learn is because the hair moves differently every time you cut it. The blunt cut cuts close to the surface and you can see what you have immediately, but layering asks you to see the shape while it is up. There is a delay between when the hands cut and when the hair settles down. Sometimes a haircut is very even when the hair is pulled up and when the hair drops the shape seems too heavy, too thin or just awkward. Layering is less complicated when it is thought of as simply removing weight from specific areas and not as taking away something complicated. The more you are aware of which area you are removing weight and where the weight stays on, the clearer the process will become.
A simple beginner exercise is on a mannequin head. Work on a basic shape with a simple round layer. Keep the sections small to avoid making mistakes. Part the hair into nice sections and take a simple guide. Lift the sections one at a time at one angle. Watch how each new section lines up with the previous section. It is easy to make mistakes with the hands, because it seems simple once the pattern is seen. One section may be over directed or the angle may vary too much. The entire cut may look very off balance. Slow down while sectioning the hair. Watch how the hair behaves. Watch the hair when it leaves the head. Watch the hair when the cut ends. Try this pattern several times without cutting too much of the hair.
Another beginner mistake is to pull the hair very hard while lifting the section. If tension is too much the hair will spring higher when it drops. This leads to an uneven inside or unwanted bulk in the interior of the shape. If you notice this, do not try to fix it by cutting more. Comb the hair back to the guide. Do it with less tension and be gentle when you try the same motion again. This mistake can be corrected with patience and not just a few more cuts of the shear. Some students make the mistake of taking too wide of a section. This makes it hard to find the guide. The guide is very important in a haircut. When the guide is lost, the cut drifts off the path that it was on and creates a shape that has no direction. Narrower sections seem like they take longer and this makes some people take bigger sections. Narrower sections are easier to see clearly and they show up mistakes faster.
Another layering exercise can be completed in 15 minutes. It will make the process simpler. Take the first 4 minutes of the time to part the mannequin. Pick just one small section of the shape and part off. Let’s say this is the back crown section. The next 6 minutes should be spent cutting the section. Keep the sections small and lift to the same height. Keep the elevation steady. Keep your eyes on the previous guide. Make sure the new section connects perfectly to the guide. When this is done, let the hair settle. Take 3 minutes to look at how the shape dropped. Use your fingers and comb to find any problems in the cut. Watch the movement of the hair and the distribution of the weight in the shape. The last 2 minutes should just be thought and reflection. Do not make any changes, just notice the changes. What caused the shape to move more? Was it the section, the height, the direction or the hold?
There is a difference between layering and the hands, and layering and the eyes. Beginners often only look at the very ends but the movement and weight shows a shape’s movement. A little movement, brushing or hand movement should always be used. Watch the movement and where the hair wants to sit. Does one side sit with too much crown volume? Does the shape fall off in the back while the front is too heavy? The answer shows what the hands did to create the change. Learning is easier when the eyes learn faster. When a student sees the change faster, they see their work faster and can make the change more easily. Layering may feel less scary when this is noticed. This way you will know how the shape moves and what causes it to move. You will see where mistakes start and you will know how your touch can create a softer look with more control.
